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i would not recommend this bad boy as a pet

December 10, 2011 By Leave a Comment

ELECTRC FENCE

Seems
a sheep farmer was puzzled about the disappearance of
some sheep on his farm.
After a few weeks the farmer decided to put up an electric
fence. About a week later, this
is what he
found!


 

Now, I know we’ve all heard of people being eaten by snakes
I bet most of us
have said,
‘If a snake tried to eat me, I’d blah, blah, blah & get
away.’
Well, this is a python & they’re extremely aggressive
& have a few teeth that they
use to hold
their prey while they
wrap around them & then constrict.
Could you get away if this one bit you
& held on with its
‘few teeth?’

(Note: The wires are 10
inches
apart.)

OOOHHH SHHHIIIIIITTTTTTTTT
!!!!

Filed Under: reptiles, thought off the week

boa constrictor

November 29, 2011 By Leave a Comment
There are several subspecies of boa constrictor (species name boa constrictor) that are found in the pet trade. Red tailed boas (Boa constrictor constrictor) are commonly found in the pet trade, and Boa constrictor imperatorcan be found as well, among other less common subspecies. The care for all the species is fairly similar.Before committing to ownership of a boa constrictor, be sure you will be able to handle the size and strength of a full grown snake for the 25-30 years your snake might live. A full grown boa constrictor (red tailed) will reach 8-10 feet long and weigh up to 50 pounds. These are very muscular and thick bodied snake. While generally quite docile in temperament, it is important to respect the inherent strength of these animals and that could inflict serious injury to a person. As a general rule, for a constricting snake over 6-8 feet it is a good idea to have a second person present while handling the snake, just in case assistance is required. Keep in mind also that large, secure housing is required for these snakes, and as adults need large prey such as large rats or even rabbits.As with other reptiles, owners should choose a captive bred specimen. Captive bred reptiles are generally more healthy and docile than wild caught counterparts. All boa constrictors fall under CITES (Convention on the International Trade of Endangered Species) and are listed in CITES Appendix II (threatened in their native habitat). Additionally, Boa constrictor occidentalisis on CITIES Appendix I – endangered – and requires permits to buy and sell. Fortunately boa constrictors breed fairly readily in captivity.When choosing a boa constrictor, look for the following signs of a healthy snake:

  • alert
  • firm, muscular body
  • no loose fold of skin
  • tongue flicking
  • clear eyes
  • no signs of retained shed (check eyes, end of tail)
  • no visible external parasites
  • clean vent
  • scales healthy, no brown or curled edges
  • no wounds on skin
  • reacts to handling by coiling firmly (but gently) on hand/arm, and relaxing a bit after a while
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Boa care made easy

November 29, 2011 By Leave a Comment

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Filed Under: books and info, reptiles

save your leopard gecko

November 14, 2011 By 4 Comments

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Filed Under: books and info, reptiles

keeping chameleons

November 13, 2011 By Leave a Comment

Veiled Chameleon

 

Exotic Pets
Chameleons are amazing creatures, but sometimes are not the best choice as pets. They are not for the beginner and their requirements are quite specific, and they are easily stressed. They do not like to be handled so pass this reptile by if you want to be able to handle your reptile. This week we’ll have a look at the basics of chameleons and their care.True (also known as old world) chameleons are most well known for their ability to change color. Young chameleons are usually a dull gray/brown color and can change shades a bit, but at around 5 months of age the adult color and the ability to change colors develops and a range of colors including green, blue green, turquoise and black can be seen. Changing colors provides camouflage, temperature regulation and a means of communicating with other chameleons. Colors change in response to excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other influences. Generally, a dark brown to black chameleon is stressed, with the brighter colors reflecting a happier mood. Also, different colors can be seen due to color mutations and other color phases.Other features that make chameleons unique include their tongue, which is used to catch prey. The tongue can be up to 1.5 times the length of the body, allowing chameleons to effectively catch insects from a distance. They live in trees, and their feet have three toes pointing one way and two the other, giving them a good grip. Many species also have a prehensile tail, meaning it is also used to grip branches. They have globular eyes which rotate like turrets and move independently, allowing a chameleon to scan a wide radius around them for both hunting and protection. They are largely insectivorous, although some species eat some vegetation and some small invertebrates such as slugs.When selecting a chameleon, it is without question best to find a captive bred one. Wild caught specimens are usually extremely stressed, carry a heavy parasite load, and difficult to acclimate to captive conditions. Chameleons are not the hardiest nor easiest reptile to keep and starting with a stressed pet will only make matters worse. In addition, the capture and shipping of chameleons (which fortunately is being more tightly regulated) results in the death of many animals due to stress, dehydration or starvation – many more die in transit than make it to the pet store. (The same can be said for many exotic pet species.) Observe the chameleon – it should be bright and active, able to change colors, and have a well fleshed body. Some experienced chameleon keepers recommend a male, especially for the beginner, as their nutritional needs are somewhat simpler and they seem a little more hardy. Being territorial and solitary animals, chameleons should be kept singly. In any case, two males should never be kept together as they will be very aggressive with each other.

There are several species kept as pets, the most common being the veiled, Jackson’s, and panther chameleons. Veiled chameleons are large (up to 2 feet long) and need a suitably large enclosure, but are fairly hardy. Jackson’s chameleons are smaller (need less space), and the males look like little triceratops with three horns on the head, but they are not as hardy. Panther chameleons are also quite large (males are much larger than females), and exhibit some striking colors.

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baby bearded dragon

October 22, 2011 By Leave a Comment

Feeding

Baby beardies up to 12 weeks of age should be fed three times a day with as much livefood as they can eat in 10 minutes.  Crickets are the best food as they are both nutritious and the least expensive to buy.  AVOID mealworms at any age as a staple diet – they are not nutritious and are hard to digest.  Bearded dragons do like them, but it doesn’t mean they are good for them, so give only as a treat.  At about 4 months old feeding can be reduced to twice a day, and at around six to eight months to once a day.  As a rule of thumb no food (veg or livefood) should be wider than the gap between their eyes.

Fresh, chopped vegetables should be available at all times.  When a bearded dragon is adult (at around 12 to 18 months) it will be 75% vegetarian, so should get used to eating vegetables from an early age.  If you are lucky when you buy your baby beardie the breeder will have fed it vegetables from birth.  Unfortunately many bearded dragons act a bit like toddlers around their veg – if it’s green it can’t taste nice!  Keep persevering and putting that veg in.  Try a variety of different sorts and colours – peppers, butternut squash, apple and grapes are sometimes relished!

Copyright reserved.  Webmaster Productions LtdHeat and Light

Bearded dragons come from the inland deserts of Australia.  They cannot exist in most climates without additional heat.  Only in some very warm parts of the world (California for example), can they be kept outside at least part of the time.

The vivarium should be heated in such a manner so that the vivarium can have a hot and a cooler end.  Beardies are cold blooded, and self regulate their own temparature by heating up under a basking lamp, and then being able to go to the cooller end to cool down.  Dragons will not be happy, will not thrive and may well die if they do not have the correct heat gradient in their vivarium.

Ideally the ‘hot end’ should be around 105 degrees fahrenheit, and the cooler end around 84 degrees.  Either two thermometers, or a good quality thermometer with two read outs are required so you can check that the temperature is being maintained correctly.

Heat lamps are the best source of heat – the lizards can bask under these lamps as they would do on a rock in the wild.  Shrek basking under an infra red heat lamp
A bright white light attracts the beardies to bask as they are attracted to the light source as they would be to the sun.  Ceramics aren’t quite as good for that reason – that said though, Stumpy, our third beardie has a ceramic bulb and basks happily under it.  A ceramic has the benefit that it can come on over night to maintain a background heat if necessary without producing light to disburb the bearded dragon.

A thermostat controller is necessary to make sure you maintain the correct heat – a dimming controller, such as the Habistat range is recommended.  Not only is the dimmer kinder on the lightbulb life, the effect is more natural and less stressful for the lizards.

Unfortunately, setting up a vivarium is not cheap if you do it properly, but it is always worth looking for second hand bargains on Ebay.

Apart from heat, the desert also has sunlight, and this is something else that needs to be mimicked in an indoor vivarium.  Bearded dragons need UV light in order to absorb vitamin D and make use of the minerals and vitamins they are ingesting.  Adequate UV light can be provided by a flourescent tube running the length of the vivarium.  Special tubes are made for reptiles – bearded dragons need at least 10% UVB – the Arcadia 12% is a well recommended tube.

An hour under the strongest UVB light is only equal to about 20 minutes in the bright Australian desert – that’s why the strongest lights are recommended.   Choose one six inches less that length of the viv – that way your beardie will be exposed wherever he is.  (i.e. For a 4ft viv chose a 42″ light)  Avoid the concentrated reptile lamps as these have been known to damage a beardie’s eyes.   Thermostats
Substrate
Vivarium
Accessories
Which UVB light to buy?        Back to TopWhen dragons get too hot they open their mouths to help them cool down.  This is perfectly normal behaviour, and nothing to get concerned about! Care of your baby bearded dragon

You can find the information you need to take care of a new baby bearded dragon on my Care Sheet.

This page gives an introduction to feeding, heat, and light.  To read in more detail please see:

NEVER use a HEATMAT or Heat Rock!

Beardies cannot feel heat through their stomachs and can easily burn themselves.  Take advice from this comment that was left on my forum in answer to another member’s question about using a heat mat which came with his ‘complete bearded dragon setup’:

“Take my advice burn the thing. Duck has just finished a 3 week course of 2 anti biotic jabs every other day cuz a heat mat burnt him. He is fighting fit now though”.

Enough said?
There are a variety of heat lamps on the market – ceramic which give off heat, but no light and spot lights which come in a range of colours and which give off both heat and light.  When I first wrote this site I suggested that you can choose which suits you and your pocket.  I used to use red lamps as we have the benefit of being able to be sure when they are on and I felt wouldn’t disturb the beardies when the heat came on at night.  However, I now know that beardies can see red light, and their sleep could be disturbed.

I have also learned that unless the house gets very cold at night it is not normally necessary to have heat at night.  Beardies can take temps down as low as 60 degrees fahrenheit, and if it does get colder than this in winter I simply cover the vivarium with a blanket.  Food should be no wider than the gap between their eyesWhen your bearded dragon is fully grown livefood should be reduced to being given only 2 or 3 times a week.  From birth to adult beardies grow 4000 times their birth rate, hence the need to stuff themselves with copious amounts of protein.  Once they stop growing their internal organs will not be able to handle excessive calcium, so their livefood must be reduced.  This is the time where you may need to be harsh to be kind, and withhold livefood until they do start eating their veg.  Beardies are very clever at trying to make you feel guilty about not giving them locusts, but this battle of wills you must win.   Some people want to feed their adult bearded dragons ‘pinkies’ (baby mice).  The general advice is NOT to feed these as they are too rich and full of protein.  Whilst your beardie might like them it is not being kind, as the extra protein will damage their organs.  The only time it is advised to feed a pinkie is to a female after egg laying to build her up again.  Michael Recommends:
I use the Arcadia 12% striplight in all my vivs.  It’s one of the strongest on the market so I know my beardies are getting adequate UVB.

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keeping geckos

October 18, 2011 By Leave a Comment

geckos are small lizards native to Pakistan.  Geckos often live happily with humans as long as they are properly fed and cared  for. Geckos cost between $80 and $250. These little creatures are often sold at  pet shops. The most beneficial way to care for your gecko, is by keeping the  aquarium clean, giving him fresh food and water often, and by placing them in an  environment with an appropriate amount of heat.

 

Difficulty:
Moderately Easy

Instructions

 

    • 1

      Place the tank in a location of the home that can be supervised if children  and visitors are around. Geckos need their tanks to be around 88 degrees  Fahrenheit in the day, and around 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Use a heat  lamp or another type of tank heater from your local pet store. Keep an enclosure  over the top of the tank that protects the gecko from escaping but allows air to  pass through. Keep a thermometer sticker on the tank to monitor the  temperature.

    • 2

      Provide nutritious food. Younger and older geckos may enjoy fresh shredded  greens shredded. However, by nature, geckos catch live insects to  eat. Meal worms, fruit flies and crickets are popular choices. Crickets are  often the main source of food for a gecko. They are the most nutritious as  compared to other insects. Choose smaller crickets so the gecko has no problems  handling them. Some owners feed the crickets healthy items, such as orange  slices, fish flakes and vegetables, before feeding them to geckos. The nutrients  are passed through the crickets to the gecko.

    • 3

      Give your gecko vitamin supplements if you think he isn’t getting enough  nutrients. Some owners do this even if their gecko is eating a nutritious diet,  to ensure good health. These supplements are sold at most pet stores. There are  a variety to choose from. Vitamin drops can be put into the gecko’s water, or  vitamin powder brushed on the gecko’s food.

    • 4

      Provide fresh water every day or two, and clean the water container. Keeping  the tank clean, the water fresh, and other furnishings clean, prevents the  spread and growth of common bacteria and parasites found in many geckos’ living  environments. Parasites, such as pin worms, come from infected insects. If you  think your gecko has a parasite problem, talk to a  veterinarian.

    • 5

      Place a hiding area in the tank. Geckos are nocturnal creatures–mostly  active at night. They enjoy having a place to hide during daytime hours. Caves,  logs and other hiding areas are sold at pet stores, along with other tank  furnishings.

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keeping corn snakes

October 17, 2011 By Leave a Comment

It’s not hard to see why corn snakes are considered the best beginner pet snake to own. Not only are they docile and enjoy being handled but they are also extremely hardy and therefore easy to care for. In addition, they come in a beautiful variety of colours and patterns.

Choosing Your Corn Snake

It is always best to start with a captive-bred specimen and corn snakes (Elaphe guttata guttata) are easily available as they breed readily in captivity and large numbers are produced annually.

 

Choose one that has clear eyes and is alert and flicking its tongue. Its body should be well-fleshed with no cuts or scrapes. Check also for signs of ticks and mites and also for a clean vent. Most corn snakes live for about 20 years and grow to a length of 3-5 feet, which is ideal for a pet. Captive-bred corn snakes are usually docile to handle and in any case, their bite is not venomous to human beings.

Housing Your Corn Snake

While corn snakes will tolerate a variety of environmental conditions, it is still important to provide the optimum living environment in order to preserve your snake’s health and condition. As they are relatively small, corn snakes do not need enormous enclosures and in fact, many people keep baby corn snakes in plastic shoeboxes with holes punched for ventilation. Otherwise, a ten gallon terrarium or vivarium or similar size enclosure would be a suitable choice for a young corn snake, graduating to a standard twenty-gallon long aquarium upon reaching maturity and full adult size at about 3 or 4 years. Even larger aquariums, such as the thirty-gallon breeder tank or the fifty-five gallon tank would also be appropriate. One thing to remember is that corn snakes are excellent escape artists therefore considerable thought must be given to escape-proofing the enclosure, such as a secure-fitting lid that can be clamped down.

 

The substrate on the floor of your terrarium is extremely important. Cedar shavings and pine shavings are believed to cause respiratory problems in snakes and therefore best avoided, as is corn cob bedding, often used with birds, as this can cause intestinal blockage if swallowed by the snake and may also cause excessive drying of the dermal tissues.


Preferred substrates include reptile bark, which can be bought from most pet stores, and newspaper or paper towels which can be easily removed when soiled and thus help to keep the terrarium clean, although they can look very unattractive. Another option is Astroturf – however, this does have a tendency to rot when wet so it is best to operate with 2 cut pieces which can be rotated so the soiled piece can be cleaned.

One important aspect that is often overlooked is the provision of hiding areas. This is essential in providing the snake with a feeling a security and can be as simple as a cardboard box, although many pet stores now offer sophisticated commercially-manufactured “hiding spots”. Whatever you choose, it must be large enough for the snake to curl up in and be out of sight but not so large that the snake will feel insecure. Pieces of bark half buried in the substrate can also be ideal as the snake can burrow under them. It is important to provide hiding places in both the warm and cool areas of its enclosure so that it can feel secure in any area; it is also good to provide a branch for climbing.

Heating Your Corn Snake

One of the key aspects of keeping reptiles is thermoregulation. As corn snakes, like all reptiles, cannot manufacture their own body heat, they have to rely on ambient temperature to raise or lower their internal core temperature. Proper thermoregulation is essential for health and for specific processes such as digestion and immune function. This means that your snake must have access to at least one area where it can warm itself and ideally, there should be a gradient of 70-85 F (21-29 C) within the terrarium.

 

To achieve this, there are several methods: you can install an overhead heat lamp (with a metal reflector) above one side of the terrarium to create a basking area; alternatively you can use undertank heating pads to provide a gradient of temperature across the floor of the terrarium. Hot rocks are best avoided as they provide a very localised heat source that is often too intense, with the result that a snake will often burn itself as it tries to curl tightly around the rock. If buried underneath some substrate, it can provide a more dispersed form of heat but in general, it is best to avoid any form of heating that the reptile may have direct contact with. Note that corn snakes are not from temperate areas and as such do not need tropical temperatures.

Feeding Your Corn Snake

Like all snakes, corn snakes are carnivores needing live or freshly-killed prey. Young corn snakes are usually fed ‘pinkling mice’, with the size of the prey increasing to adult mice as the snake grows. As long as they have appropriate heating in the enclosure, corn snakes are not picky eaters and most will thrive on a regime of once- or twice-weekly feeds. Adults may only need feeding once every 10 days. Remember that appetite will diminish around the time of a shed so feeding frequency should be reduced accordingly. Remember also that if there are not enough appropriate hiding areas, corn snakes may become stressed and refuse to eat.

 

Water is also important and a dish of clean water should be available at all times as corn snakes drink frequently. Unfortunately, corn snakes will often defecate in their water so this must be noted and replaced immediately. Corn snakes will also bathe in the water dish just before a shed.

A Perfect Pet…

With their easy care and handling, corn snakes are justifiably one of the most popular snakes kept as pets. Their availability in a dazzling array of colours and patterns means that they are a favourite with experienced enthusiasts as well as hobby beginners.

 

 

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reptile care guides

October 14, 2011 By Leave a Comment

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